How We Love To Exfoliate; Let Us Count The Ways

Oily or dry, maturing or matured, having a smooth, even surface texture will always be an indicating factor of healthy, glowing skin. Like I tell my patients, it is okay to be aggressive with your skincare, we just want to be aggressive in the right way for you.

Why do I need to exfoliate?

On average, our cell turnover rate is around every 28-30 days. This rate can vary as we age due to the reduction in turnover speed, causing our healing to slow as well. If you compare newborn skin cell turnover and healing, to someone in their 80's, a small external injury to the skin would last mere days for a newborn, versus months for an older patient.

To enhance our cell turnover and, in turn, boost our skin's healing process, we must understand that there are varying degrees of exfoliation methods, all of which can be used by anyone in a different, yet very beneficial way.

How do I exfoliate?

There are three main types of exfoliation methods that I prefer to use. Each one can be utilized by a different skin type or concern, whether it be daily, weekly, or monthly use.

1. Chemical Exfoliation: The introduction of Alpha or Beta Hydroxy Acids to the skin, absorbing deep into underlying layers to lift away dead cells from under the surface. Chemical exfoliation is ideal for treating acne, pigmentation and textural concerns and is very commonly found in astringents or toners as well as in-office chemical peels. Examples of Chemical Exfoliators are Glycolic, Lactic and Kojic (AHA's) and Salicylic Acids (BHA).

2. Physical Exfoliation: The use of beaded cleansers or scrubs to slough away dead skin from the surface. This more common form of exfoliating is great for treating acne and textural concerns. The important thing to remember about physical exfoliants is to ensure your beads are perfectly round to prevent micro-injuries to the skin. This means no apricot scrubs!

3. Mechanical Exfoliation: Utilizing a tool to remove dead skin from the surface, this technique is great for textural concerns and ensuring maximum product absorption. Being geared toward surface exfoliation only, it can be used in conjunction with chemical and physical exfoliation for a more effective treatment. Examples of Mechanical Exfoliation includes Microdermabrasion, Dermaplaning, and Dry Brushing.

What results can I expect from exfoliating?

There are so many benefits to exfoliating, for both face and body. With each exfoliation method, you will get a different outcome, depending on what you are using and what you are using it for. However, to exfoliate in any way will benefit you greatly, in the following ways:

• Gently removes dead skin cells, creating a smoother surface texture.
  

• Reduces clogged pores and the resulting milia or acne breakouts.
  

• Enhances absorption of active skincare ingredients.
  

• Increases blood circulation.
  

• Decreases surface pigmentation.
  
  

Can you exfoliate too much?

While some practitioners will tell patients that too much exfoliating can cause sensitivities and a compromised barrier, I believe that this only applies to the physical or mechanical forms of exfoliation, being more aggressive on the surface than chemical techniques.

It is important to utilize the various exfoliation methods throughout the cell turnover cycle, to prevent sensitivities from arising due to inadequate product absorption, clogged pores, etc. For younger skin, it is more common that we will focus on physical and chemical exfoliation because of their high turnover rate, whereas on more mature patients we tend to lean more toward mechanical and chemical to increase the vitality of their skin at different depths.

In any case, it is important to discuss your skin concerns with a licensed professional, and not just someone you see at a department store counter. This will ensure you are receiving proper care at home, as well as having someone to turn to for deeper, more effective treatments if the concern permits. Plus, having professional exfoliation treatments every 4 to 6 weeks can not only increase your skin's health, but your mental health as well!

Proper skincare has no age range or limit, remember that!